Gasoline, Stabilizer, and the Mini Cooper

Since the 1970’s automobiles in the USA have been equipped with evaporative systems to keep our fuel from evaporating and polluting the atmosphere. In 1993, Gilbarco introduced the vapor recovery system on their gas pumps. These developments seem to have led to the formulation of gasoline fuels that are more volatile and less stable chemically than in the past.

One additive in gasoline is MTBE, a synthetic ether, (Chemical Formula: C₅H₁₂0), chosen by the EPA to oxygenate our fuel. MTBE has been the subject of much controversy since it was identified as a carcinogen and widely discovered to be in many wells and water supplies as a result of leaks from supply tanks. It also causes flu symptoms and brain damage. Public awareness and court decisions have helped to turn heads and minds at the EPA and I am hopeful the whole situation could inoculate the country against similar maladies in the future.

There are two excellent reasons why I use a fuel stabilizer in my 1962 Mini Cooper all year round. I get Gold Eagle brand Sta-Bil in the auto parts store or the mower shop.

When added to the fuel tank in the recommended proportions, it stops fuel vapors escaping from the tank vent & (vented) fuel cap when the car is in the garage, eliminating the smell and pollution. This is especially important if the garage is connected to the house and applies equally to mowers, blowers, and so on.

The other reason is fuel turns to a green varnish if allowed to evaporate. The varnish is ugly, smelly and just plain bad. It glues float valves and fuel pump wafer valves shut. It also coats carburetor fuel jets & spoils the intended metering. Finally it tends to spoil fresh fuel when it is added to a contaminated tank.

Two experiences taught me valuable lessons. In 1997, I carefully checked out, prepared and started a ‘57 Thunderbird and road tested it. Everything was great, I felt like I was in a dream, wind in my hair…Oh, sorry about the flashback. When I came back the next day to work on my list, the engine wouldn’t start. I had to take one of the world’s most complicated carburetors to smithereens and clean the jets with starting ether because the varnish in the old fuel was cured hard by the heat of the engine. Then in 1999, I helped the owner of a ‘67 Healey start his car after it was in storage for six years. When I asked him about the fuel, he told me, no problem, he had given it a double dose of Sta-bil before he put it away. Even though I was using Sta-bil since the first experience, I was doubtful, but that engine started right up with no hammering of carburetors or fuel pump and there was never any sign of a problem with that fuel.

Now, I have a few footnotes.

• I just read about a fogging oil product to preserve engines in storage. Also I came across another product to preserve the exposed bits of the engine, Boeshield T-9, but I have not tried them.
• I don’t make Sta-bil and I don’t know what’s in it. Be careful when you handle it and call me if you find out what is in it.
• Sta-bil is approved for use with catalytic converter exhaust systems. Check your other additives. I killed a couple of O2 sensors on my Subaru with mystery oils.
• Carry Sta-bil in the car and add it when you fill up your car or gas container. That way it is thoroughly mixed and circulated through the entire fuel system before you get to your garage.
• If you spill gasoline, try to avoid contact with your skin. If contact occurs, wash with soap and water as soon as possible.
• If you change a fuel filter, clean a float chamber or replace a fuel hose, conform to the highest standards when positioning fuel hoses and clamps, and use the highest quality hoses and clamps.
• Be aware that some fuel additives including MTBE may degrade rubber parts of the fuel system. Check all the fuel hoses for visible cracks and clamps for integrity (try not to over tighten clamps-they can cut into hoses). Do not neglect this periodic maintenance. If you buy a used car, check out the system as soon as possible. Use a workshop manual and remember the evaporative system.
• Be healthy, buy an approved breather mask like Willson’s 6100 for about $30 at hardware stores and use it when working around exposed gasoline as well as the usual latex or vinyl gloves.
• Gasoline is the most explosive thing in your world unless you play with dynamite on the job. I know this because it was drilled into me by a fireman friend (FDNY-Squad 1).
• Be smart, get a dry chemical fire extinguisher for your garage or car (or both), know how to operate it, and put it near the door, where you can get it if it is ever needed.

By Thomas Abbe

Filename: TABTEC11Nov2003